New Classes, New Experiences

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Since my last post, I've explored new parts of the city and decided which classes I'll take. I'll use this entry to go in depth on my experience with academics in Argentina—especially the differences between Universidad de Buenos Aires and Duke. But first, I'll provide a quick update on my time outside of class.

What I've Been Up To

On August 8, 2018, the Argentine Senate voted on a bill that would have legalized abortion in the first 14 weeks of pregnancy. The bill ultimately failed, but the debate mobilized hundreds of thousands—if not millions—of protestors.

I knew before coming to Buenos Aires that Argentina had a history of mass protest. We'd studied it in class, and I had read that high levels of protest was correlated with lower confidence in institutions. However, it's one thing to read about it in a political science class at Duke. It's quite another to experience it on the ground.

In spite of the wind, rain, and cold, I saw major avenues close down during rush hour and fill with protestors. Those in favor of legalizing abortion wore green pañuelos (handkerchiefs), while those against it carried handkerchiefs in blue. Shortly before the demonstration, protestors introduced a new color—orange, to symbolize the separation of church and state.

I captured this video, showing a group of protestors in favor of legal abortion.

A protest in favor of legal abortion in front of Congress

While the protest over abortion stood out, I also had some more laid-back moments that I appreciated. I've had time to get to know people from all over the world thanks to the Universidad del Salvador (USAL) and Casa BAIS, an organization that plans events for exchange students. Through a tour of the Botanical Garden, a jazz concert at the Thelonious Club, and a horse race at the Hipódromo de Palermo, I've met students from Mexico, Guatemala, Brazil, Portugal, France, Germany, and several other countries.

A jazz concert (from John Coltrane's album, Blue Train) at the Thelonious Club in Palermo

I've also checked out some local sights, including the National Museum of Decorative Arts and the Buenos Aires Japanese Garden.

Chinese Guardian Lion (Perro de Fu) sculpture at the Museum of Decorative Arts

Sakura (Cherry Blossom) trees at the Japanese Garden

Torii gate at the Japanese Garden

Academics

I've finally chosen my classes, and I'm so excited to have everything down on paper! After what seemed like an endless add-drop period, I've registered in the following five courses:

1. Castellano Avanzado: Identidad de los Argentinos [Advanced Spanish: Argentine Identity]
2. Derecho Internacional y de los Organismos Internacionales [International Law and Law of International Organizations]
3. Comercio Internacional [International Trade]
4. Liderazgos Presidenciales Siglo XXI de Sudamérica [21st Century Presidential Leadership in South America]
5. Política Internacional Latinoamericana [International Politics of Latin America]

The international law, international trade, and Latin American politics classes are all offered by USAL, which is a small, private, Catholic university. USAL has a strong community of exchange students and Argentine students who serve as anfitriones (hosts), planning excursions and activities in the city. Academically, they have a strong focus on Latin America. Even though I'll be taking classes in international law and trade, I'll be exploring these topics through the lens of Argentina. This will include topics that I've only touched the surface of in my classes in the US—the Organization of American States, MERCOSUR, UNASUR, and Argentines' perceptions of international financial institutions.

The Spanish course is taught by IFSA, and should be a good opportunity to read literature by Argentine and Latin American writers.

The class I'm most looking forward to is Liderazgos Presidenciales, which is taught at the Universidad de Buenos Aires (UBA). We start with more general debates—What are the qualities of a leader? Do presidential or parliamentary systems serve the public more effectively?—before dedicating the rest of the course to case studies. The class will specifically look at four presidents: Álvaro Uribe, Hugo Chavez, Evo Morales, and Rafael Correa. All of them have left a deep impact on their countries. Uribe oversaw military success against the FARC guerrilla group in Colombia, but has been implicated in war crimes committed by his own armed forces and by right-wing paramilitary groups. Chavez is hailed by supporters for his economic populism, but opponents identify his legacy with the violence, extreme poverty, and refugee crisis of Venezuela today. Morales and Correa are similarly divisive, receiving credit for pursuing economic equality, but facing criticism for their disregard for institutions. The case studies should result in contentious debates, and there's no place better for that than UBA.

The largest public university in the city, the Universidad de Buenos Aires provides classes with some of the best professors in Argentina, but is severely underfunded. The buildings are poorly maintained, and the faculty often go on strike due to low pay. Since the government has refused to increase wages with inflation, two classes have already been cancelled.

The student body at UBA is highly politically active, which provides an exciting contrast to Duke. While my professors and friends at home are generally close to the center of the political spectrum, almost all of the students at UBA have strong views against the current government in Argentina. On the walls, there are dozens of signs and flyers railing against President Mauricio Macri, the IMF, and the WTO. I don't always agree with their opinions, but I can't wait to hear their perspectives come out in our class discussions.

The experience of attending UBA, taking classes with a focus on Latin America, and meeting people from all around the world are sure to make this a semester to remember.